Nail culture wouldn’t exist without women of color.
Written by Zoe Brown, photo by Anna Nguyen
March through May was a rough time for my nails. Coronavirus left my hands looking nightmarish as I turned to DIY nail treatments in place of my usual manicure. For those few months, I missed having nails and the confidence they brought me. More importantly, I grew an appreciation for the talented nail technicians whose jobs I had taken for granted.
Having my nails done has become a staple to my self-care routine for years now. Every three weeks or so, I get a fresh set. I’ve gradually gone out of my comfort zone to get glitter polish and most recently, multicolored neon nails. It has become one of my favorite self-care activities but more than that, having a good set makes me feel like I’m on top of the world. I love being able to express myself through my clothing and body and having my nails done is an extension of that. They empower me and make me feel beautiful.
But it’s time we give thanks to those who make the nail industry what it is. Nail culture would simply not exist without women of color.
Today, the largest group dominating the nail game is Vietnamese people, making up 41% of industry workers. In fact, there are Vietnamese nail salons across the US. The origin of popular nail salons in America can be traced to an influx of Vietnamese immigrants after the Vietnam war.
In the 1970s, movie star Tippi Hedren was volunteering with Vietnamese immigrants at a refugee camp. The story goes that some of the women at the camp were drawn to her beautiful nails. To find jobs for the women, Hedren brought in her personal manicurist to teach the women how to do nails. These women went on to be some of the first manicurists and eventual salon owners on the east coast.
Fast forward to the ‘90s and 2000s, manicures became incredibly mainstream. The increased presence of nail salons drove down the cost of a high-quality manicure, making it affordable for many women — not just the rich. Today, nails are considered to be a part of US beauty standards and many women’s beauty routines. Myself included.
As nails become increasingly popular through social media, nails become more intricate with embellishments, designs, and colors. So much so that I’m struggling to even use the term “nail technician” at all. One only needs to scroll through a nail salon’s Facebook page to see that manicurists are often artists. Nail artists are able to make imaginative nail ideas and Pinterest pictures a reality for customers — not an easy feat.
But the credit for beautiful, bold nails is twofold. To the artists who do unique nails and those who created the idea in the first place — black women.
Long before elaborate nail art was brought into the white-dominated mainstream, black women were rocking eye-catching nails in the 80s and 90s. But black women are not always credited for the trend. This type of thankless cultural appropriation is not without harm. Black women were initially scrutinized for having ornate nails, but decades later the trend was popularized by Kardashian-type influencers. Today, white women may feel more comfortable experimenting with decorative nails, but black women may be less likely to do so out of fear of discrimination for being “unprofessional.”
The history of culturally appropriated trends created by women of color, stolen by white women is long and fraught. But the desire for nails, whether long or short, colorful or neutral, glittery or matte, seems to be here to stay. What’s important now is that we learn the history of how it came to be and give credit where credit is due. Check your nail privilege before you make your next nail appointment.
If you’re planning to get your nails done soon…
WEAR A MASK. Most cities require them, but the people working in the salons have taken precautions to be able to serve your needs and make you feel beautiful — treat them with respect.
Always thank your technician and tip them well.
Refer friends to excellent salons and nail artists!
Follow nail salons on Facebook and Instagram, as well as like and share their posts.
Learn more…
https://www.bitchmedia.org/article/acrylic-nails
https://unladylike.co/episodes/083/manicures
Nails by VIP Nails Joplin, MO