Written by Koli Croy

Photography by Madeleine Brady

Modeled by Vivian Rodriguez & Abigail Rowland

Brands like Adidas, Nike, Converse, and New Balance all have one major aspect in common: at one point over the last 40 years, they have dominated the shoe industry in some way that made them the most talked about company. They have all created shoes that are not only timeless, but fashionable. Their shoes have become staples in many closets and provide comfort to the wearer. With the sneaker market being worth 78.59 billion in 2021 and only expected to grow to 128.34 billion by 2030, most consumers can predict that we will see more collaborations, new designs, and also much more marketing for sneakers. Looking throughout the last 40 years, we can figure out how the shoe industry skyrocketed to what it is now.

80s - Converse was the powerhouse of the shoe industry in the 80s. They had many notable collaborations with athletes such as Larry Bird, Isiah Thomas, and Magic Johnson. Converse was a brand that had cemented itself in basketball and was almost synonymous with it. They had great grip, ankle support, and were designed by Chuck Taylor. What athlete would not trust that? By 1983, Nike further ingrained themselves into sneaker history by designing a shoe for Michael Jordan. This shoe deal was different from any other deal —since this was a signature shoe made specifically for Jordan. The collaboration was one of the biggest deals in Nike and NBA history, exceeding most expectations by profiting $126 million in its first year of being released. With Nike gaining traction from their Air Jordans, we saw the brand marketing other shoes and being wildly successful. Styles such as the Air Max and Air Force became shoes that every kid wanted.

90s - With Nike demolishing the shoe industry, it became harder for other brands to stand out. We see some new staple shoe styles emerge during the 90s. The Reebok Runner became increasingly popular amongst other athletes and even streetwear enthusiasts. The Reebok Runner was an easy shoe to style and versatile. The shoe was lightweight and had differing colorways. New Balance 990s also made a name for themselves by following the “dad sneaker” trope of the Nike Monarchs, but offered more colors and was one of the first running shoes to be over $100. This helped set it apart from other sneakers because it was a high-class symbol. Because of the popularity of the shoe, New Balance released more variations of the 990 which also became sensations in sneaker culture: 990v2, 990v3, & the 574. Honorable mentions for the nineties include Nike Air Max 97, 95, and the Reebok Question.

00s - As we approach the 2000s, many brands started to realize that their clientele was growing up, which meant more purchasing power. Numerous companies started creating more hype around sneaker drops and anticipated collaborations, as a result of this companies increased their prices. Some would say that the 2000s was when the sneaker resale market started to grow. These companies were using hype marketing, to grab consumers’ attention. With more people immersing themselves into sneaker culture, people wanted ways to stand out. What better way than a fresh new pair of kicks? These collaborations were produced in limited quantities which made them highly sought after by consumers. A notable collaboration was the Allen Iverson Reebok Answer 4. This shoe embodied street culture for many reasons. Someone who was immersed in hip-hop culture, throwback jerseys, and diamond chains, Allen Iverson was an "in-your-face reminder of the lifestyle he was about."(COMPLEX Sneak of the Year) He was so engrossed in this aesthetic that he became a symbol for street style. Many other shoes that encapsulated the sneaker world were the BAPE Bapesta, Nike Air Zoom Huarache 2K4, or the Nike Spiridon.

10s - In 2010, the battle of sneakers had started to ramp up between many sneaker companies. Online resellers had dominated the market and changed the industry. Many sneaker brands wanted to be the powerhouse, which created a sneaker war. Brands like Adidas, Nike, and Converse were all cemented in the sneaker community and had to find more ways to stick out. Nike created shoes with Kobe and LeBron who provided oversight to their new designs, while also revisiting past designs. Nike used new technology to catch the eyes of buyers. The Nike Mag was inspired by the 1989 film “Back to the Future Part II.” Mags were featured in the movie, with Marty Mcfly donning them and made real through special effects. These shoes were merely a dream and labeled “the greatest shoe never made”. Nike capitalized off nostalgia and released the Mags in 2011. Although revisiting old designs worked for some, Adidas was not one of those brands. In November 2013, Kanye West signed with Adidas. Shoes such as the Adidas Yeezy Boost 750 and the 350 V2 were impactful shoes in sneaker culture. The shoes were offered in many different colorways and were sought after for their comfortability, shape, and the sock type seen in the Boost 350s.
The last 40 years of sneaker culture has been nothing if not constantly changing. Many new shoe brands have been popping up within the last 10 years. With new brands like ALOHAS, Dybbuk, and Asahi emerging, who is to say that larger companies such as Nike, Adidas, or Puma will not experience fallouts? The shoe industry is only expected to grow, and with that, many more emerging designers will create the next new thing. Sneakers will always be something that people want and; they are an item that will always hold so much history.

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