The Journey of Dr. Martens: How Work Boots Supported a Cultural Revolution
Written by Tanith Frazier
Photography by Sierra Ball
Modeled by Claire Boumstein, Lexi Dicicco, Kaitlyn Patton, Ellie Mccleary, Reese Tackett, & Tanith Frazier
Today we know Dr. Martens as the versatile shoe brand that makes its appearance in nearly every aspect of modern day culture. But where did the stylish shoe we know and love today originate and what makes it so culturally impactful?
The brand's beginnings date back to 1901 when the Griggs family began manufacturing work shoes, but it wasn’t until duo Klaus Maertens and Herbert Funk formed a partnership in selling shoes made with disused military supplies in post-war Munich, Germany, that the original 1460 Dr. Marten boot was developed. Originally, the shoe was marketed mostly to working class women and men as a shoe that was designed to be comfortable in working conditions, but after Maerten and Funk began to advertise overseas, the Griggs family noticed the shoe in 1960 and picked up a license to start changing the design. From this development, the shoe gained its iconic yellow stitching along with the black and yellow heel loop displaying the brand's logo.
After the brand was established, each upcoming decade saw a different era of the shoe. In the 1960s, the original boot was founded among waves of change and social revolution which witnessed exotic developments in fashion. During this time, Dr. Martens were adopted from the British working-class into the styles of “early multicultural, ska-loving skinheads,” which ultimately led to the shoe becoming a symbol of self-expression among radical cultures and individuals.
Fast forward to the 1970s, the boot was adopted into the British youth styles and popular musical genres of the decade such as glam, punk, Two Tone, and early goth. This era started to bring out the individuality in the shoe and showcased how they could be incorporated into any style, all the while a plethora of music artists and bands were also wearing the shoes, indirectly promoting them to new audiences.
The next biggest trend for the brand was in the 1980s when young women began personalizing their simple 8-eye Dr. Martens, often with embroidery and florals, which led to the development of crazier patterns and designs being implemented into the brand. During this time, U.S. hardcore musicians took the boots to the West Coast and kickstarted the American culture’s adoption of the brand. Finally, in the 1990s, festival culture adopted the shoe to style outfits and grunge artists in the music industry would wear the boots in the public eye, giving them even more popularity and finishing off the longest era of development for the shoe.
Shortly after the 40th birthday of the brand, sales declined rapidly and all but one of their UK factories had to shut down to avoid bankruptcy. However, thanks to global high fashion designers re-interpreting the classic boot, the shoe experienced a revitalization in 2003. Later, in 2010, Dr. Martens celebrated their 50th anniversary, and their success only increased throughout the 2010s.
Today, the brand thrives more than ever and continues to credit their success to music and the diverse variety of celebrities and free-thinking individuals that interpreted the boots to their own identities. Dr. Martens came from humble beginnings, but displays a powerful legacy with pride and carries their message with every shoe they sell.
